Podcast
Some skincare beliefs just won’t die. Passed down from beauty magazines, overheard at salons, or baked into product ads. One of the most stubborn? That pores open and close. They don’t. And that’s just the beginning.
Let’s clear the air on the most persistent skincare myths, what’s actually going on, and what matters when you want better skin.
Key Notes:
- Pores don’t open or close—they lack muscles to do so
- Steam and cold water change skin feel, not pore size
- Blackheads are oxidized oil, not dirt
- Exfoliation and retinoids improve how pores look over time
- SPF and collagen support reduce visible pore enlargement
What Pores Really Are (And Why They Don’t “Open” or “Close”)
Pores are tiny openings at the surface of your skin that allow oil and sweat to reach the surface. Each one is a hair follicle, attached to a sebaceous (oil) gland. They don’t have muscles. That means they can’t open, close, or shrink at will.
Pore size is mostly determined by genetics. What can change is how visible they are. A pore filled with oil and dead skin stretches slightly and reflects light differently, making it appear larger. When the area around the pore is hydrated, firm, and clean, the pore looks tighter.
This is where the confusion starts: we confuse appearance with structure. Steaming or using warm water softens the debris in pores, making extractions easier—but it doesn’t “open” anything. Splashing with cold water might make your skin feel tighter, but it doesn’t “close” anything either.
Why This Myth Keeps Spreading
Let’s be honest: skincare marketing plays a big role. Products promise to “shrink your pores” or “close them instantly.” It sounds good, especially when you’re dealing with clogged, bumpy skin.
Then there’s how the skin feels—warm water makes it soft and flexible; cold water makes it firm. Those sensations lead us to believe something is opening and closing. But that’s blood vessels and surface tissue, not the pores themselves.
We like clean explanations. “Cold closes pores” is easier to remember than “cold reduces inflammation and constricts capillaries, which can temporarily tighten skin.” But oversimplifying leads us in the wrong direction when choosing products or building routines.
What Actually Makes Pores Look Bigger
Several things contribute to more visible pores—and they’re all treatable with the right approach.
- Excess Oil:
Overactive oil glands fill the pore and stretch the opening. The oil oxidizes at the surface, making it more noticeable. - Dead Skin Buildup:
When exfoliation doesn’t keep up with cell turnover, debris builds up around the pore. This adds texture and shadows. - Loss of Collagen:
As skin ages, collagen breaks down. This weakens the support structure around each pore, causing it to appear larger and more stretched. - Sun Damage:
UV rays degrade collagen and elastin, both of which support pore shape. Without them, the opening looks looser. - Inflammation or Acne:
Chronic inflammation, blackheads, or cystic breakouts can damage the pore lining, leading to irregular size and shape.
Myth 1: “You Can Permanently Shrink Your Pores”
Nope. You can reduce their appearance, but not their actual size. Treatments like acids, retinoids, and lasers help refine texture. But they don’t delete pores—and they certainly don’t shrink them forever.
What they do is clear out congestion, rebuild collagen, and smooth the skin around the pore, so everything looks tighter.
Real results take consistency. There’s no miracle pore-tightening mask that works after one use. And there’s no product that will permanently erase the openings your skin naturally needs to function.
Myth 2: “Blackheads Are Just Dirt”
This one’s persistent—and wrong.
Blackheads form when oil and dead skin mix and clog a pore. The top layer oxidizes when exposed to air and turns dark. That’s what makes them black—not dirt or poor hygiene.
Scrubbing harder won’t “clean” blackheads out. In fact, it can irritate the skin, widen the pore opening, and lead to more blackheads down the line.
Instead, look for ingredients that gently unclog and prevent buildup:
- Salicylic acid (BHA) clears inside the pore
- Retinoids regulate oil production and support turnover
- Niacinamide helps calm inflammation and tighten the appearance of pores
Willa Krause’s Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Mask – 100ml
Breakouts and congested skin need more than a quick fix, they need ingredients that work deep inside the pores. The Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Mask is a targeted peel-off mask designed to do just that.
Formulated with salicylic acid, this mask helps:
- Unclog pores by dissolving trapped oil and dead skin
- Calm inflammatory breakouts and reduce redness
- Smooth rough texture and prevent future blackheads
Its peel-off format gently lifts impurities from the surface while the active ingredient works below. Ideal for acne-prone or oily skin, this mask can be used once or twice a week as part of your exfoliation nights—especially in a skin cycling routine.
Use on clean, dry skin and follow with a soothing moisturizer to keep your barrier supported.
Myth 3: “Cold Water Closes Pores”
Cold water does feel refreshing. It can calm redness and tighten the surface of the skin temporarily. But again, this doesn’t affect the pore’s structure. It only impacts how skin behaves at the surface level.
That cool, smooth sensation is pleasant and useful, especially after sun exposure—but it won’t fix pore visibility long-term.
What helps instead:
- SPF to protect collagen
- Consistent exfoliation
- Barrier repair with ceramides and peptides
- Gentle retinoids to rebuild structure gradually
What You Can Do to Improve the Look of Pores
Let’s focus on what works—methods backed by dermatology, not skincare myths.
- Cleanse twice daily.
Use a gentle, non-stripping cleanser in the morning and evening to reduce surface oil and debris. - Exfoliate with purpose.
Use chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid, lactic acid, or glycolic acid 2–3 times per week depending on your skin type. Don’t overdo it—your barrier matters. - Add a retinoid.
Retinoids improve collagen production and normalize oil output. Over time, this smooths and tightens skin around the pores. - Hydrate and moisturize.
Dehydrated skin overproduces oil, which leads to more clogs. Use humectants like hyaluronic acid and barrier-protecting moisturizers. - Always wear SPF.
Sun damage is a major cause of visible pores. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, even when indoors. - Seek professional support.
Chemical peels, microneedling, and fractional laser treatments can improve pore texture over time. They work best when done consistently and supported with home care.
A Sample Routine for Pore Support
Morning:
- Cleanser (non-foaming, pH-balanced)
- Niacinamide or vitamin C serum
- Lightweight moisturizer
- SPF 30+ (preferably mineral)
Evening:
- Cleanser
- Salicylic acid or glycolic acid 2–3 nights/week
- Retinoid (start 2–3 nights/week if new)
- Barrier-repair moisturizer
Weekly:
- Clay mask or enzyme exfoliant for gentle deep clean
- Hydrating mask if dryness or irritation appears
Willa Krause Earth Natural Skin Care – Vitamin C & B3 Glow Serum
If dullness, uneven tone, or lingering pigmentation are holding your skin back, the Vitamin C & B3 Glow Serum from Willa Krause’s Earth Natural range offers a clean, concentrated boost.
This waterless serum blends two powerhouse ingredients—Vitamin C for brightening and collagen support, and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) for calming inflammation, improving texture, and reducing discoloration.
Key Benefits:
- Targets pigmentation and uneven tone
- Boosts collagen production for smoother, firmer skin
- Packed with antioxidants to protect and energize skin
- Locks in hydration and keeps your glow going all day
Other Common Myths Worth Rethinking
“You should feel a product working.”
That tingling isn’t always a good sign. It could mean irritation or barrier disruption.
“Tight skin after cleansing means it’s clean.”
Tightness means you’ve likely stripped too much oil. That invites rebound oil and breakouts.
“Scrubs are the best way to exfoliate.”
Grainy scrubs can cause micro-tears. Chemical exfoliants are more precise and less harsh.
“Oil-free is always better for acne-prone skin.”
Some oils are non-comedogenic and help balance oil production. Blanket statements don’t help here.
FAQs
- Can I permanently shrink my pores?
No. Pore size is genetic. You can only reduce their visible appearance with proper care. - Does steaming help clean pores?
Steam softens oil and debris, making it easier to clear pores, but it doesn’t open them. - Is scrubbing better than exfoliating acids for blackheads?
No. Scrubs can irritate skin. Salicylic acid exfoliates inside the pore without damaging the surface. - Can oily skin cause large pores?
Yes. Excess oil stretches the follicle opening, making pores appear larger over time. - Should I skip moisturizer if I have visible pores?
No. Dehydration can increase oil production. Use lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizers daily.
So, What’s Worth Believing?
Believe in products that support skin function—not just appearance. Choose ingredients that strengthen, clarify, and protect. Trust routines that work over months—not masks that promise a quick fix.
Your pores aren’t broken. They don’t open or close. But with consistent care, they can look clean, smooth, and less noticeable.
For personalised advice, visit your nearest Willa Krause consultant.